To better understand the complex process of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics over various fringing reef profiles, numerical experiments were conducted with a one-dimensional （1D） Boussinesq wave model. The model is based on higher-order Boussinesq equations and a higher-accuracy finite difference method. The dominant energy dissipation in the surf zone, wave breaking, and bottom friction were considered by use of the eddy viscosity concept and quadratic bottom friction law, respectively. Numerical simulation was conducted for a wide range of wave conditions and reef profiles. Good overall agreement between the computed results and the measurements shows that this model is capable of describing wave processes in the fringing reef environment. Numerical experiments were also conducted to track the source of underestimation of setup for highly nonlinear waves. Linear properties （including dispersion and shoaling） are found to contribute little to the underestimation; the low accuracy in nonlinearity and the ad hoc method for treating wave breaking may be the reason for the problem.
Ke-zhao FANGJi-wei YINZhong-bo LIUJia-wen SUNZhi-li ZOU
A series of experiments on the instability of steeP water wave trains in water with finite water depths and infinite water depths in a wide wave basin were performed. It was found that under the coupled development of modulational instability and class-Ⅱ instability, the initial two-dimensional steep wave trains evolved into three＇dimensional crescent waves, followed by the occurrence of disordered water surfaces, and that the wave energy transferred to sidebands in the amplitude spectrum of the water surface elevation. The results also show that water depth has a significant effect on the growth of modulational instability and the evolutiin of crescent waves. The larger the water depth, the more quickly the modulational instability suppresses class-II instability.
Experiments were conducted to determine the vertical profile of the longshore currents over plane and barred beaches. The logarithmic law is applied to fit the data for the region below the wave trough and an adjusted logarithmic profile without the mass transport velocity is applied to the region above the wave trough. The results indicate that the logarithmic law fits the data well for both plane and barred beaches. The friction velocity and the relative roughness obtained by the data fitting are compared with relevant calculated results.
Transport and diffusion caused by coastal waves have different characteristics from those induced by flows. Through solving the vertical diffusion equation by an analytic method, this paper infers a theoretical formula of dispersion coefficient under the combined action of current and waves. It divides the general dispersion coefficient into six parts, including coefficients due to tidal current, Stokes drift, wave oscillation and interaction among them. It draws a conclusion that the contribution of dispersive effect induced by coastal waves is mainly produced by Stokes drift, while the contributions to time-averaged dispersion coefficient due to wave orbital motion and interaction between current and waves are very small. The results without tidal current are in agreement with the numerical and experimental results, which proves the correctness of the theoretical derivation. This paper introduces the variation characteristics of both the time-averaged and oscillating dispersion coefficients versus relative water depth, and demonstrates the physical implications of the oscillating mixing coefficient due to waves. We also apply the results to the costal vertical circulation and give its characteristics compared to Stokes drift.
