To better understand the complex process of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics over various fringing reef profiles, numerical experiments were conducted with a one-dimensional(1D) Boussinesq wave model. The model is based on higher-order Boussinesq equations and a higher-accuracy finite difference method. The dominant energy dissipation in the surf zone, wave breaking, and bottom friction were considered by use of the eddy viscosity concept and quadratic bottom friction law, respectively. Numerical simulation was conducted for a wide range of wave conditions and reef profiles. Good overall agreement between the computed results and the measurements shows that this model is capable of describing wave processes in the fringing reef environment. Numerical experiments were also conducted to track the source of underestimation of setup for highly nonlinear waves. Linear properties(including dispersion and shoaling) are found to contribute little to the underestimation; the low accuracy in nonlinearity and the ad hoc method for treating wave breaking may be the reason for the problem.
Ke-zhao FANGJi-wei YINZhong-bo LIUJia-wen SUNZhi-li ZOU
In this paper, a hybrid finite-difference and finite-volume numerical scheme is developed to solve the 2-D Boussinesq equations. The governing equations are the extended version of Madsen and Sorensen's formulations. The governing equations are firstly rearranged into a conservative form. The finite volume method with the HLLC Riemann solver is used to discretize the flux term while the remaining terms are discretized by using the finite difference method. The fourth order MUSCL-TVD scheme is employed to reconstruct the variables at the left and right states of the cell interface. The time marching is performed by using the explicit second-order MUSCL-Hancock scheme with the adaptive time step. The developed model is validated against various experimental measurements for wave propagation, breaking and runup on three dimensional bathymetries.
A set of nonlinear Boussinesq equations with fully nonlinearity property is solved numerically in generalized coordinates,to develop a Boussinesq-type wave model in dealing with irregular computation boundaries in complex nearshore regions and to facilitate the grid refinements in simulations.The governing equations expressed in contravariant components of velocity vectors under curvilinear coordinates are derived and a high order finite difference scheme on a staggered grid is employed for the numerical implementation.The developed model is used to simulate nearshore wave propagations under curvilinear coordinates,the numerical results are compared against analytical or experimental data with a good agreement.
